From 20th to 24th January Paris Men Fashion Week 2016 has taken place. French fashion houses presented their man Fall/winter 2016/2017 collections, among standing ovations and harsh critics. If Rome is the cultural head of the world, Paris is definitely the fashion one, so no surprise if the styles we’ve seen on Parisian catwalks will be the definitive trends of the next winter. Let’s check together the main trends of this very last fashion week and the most representative fashion designers who took part to it.
Clean lines, plain colors, low profile patterns and simple looks. Even considering the ugliness of the word, Valentino Men Collection could totally be defined as elegant. A simple elegance that recalls, not in the style but in the concept, the origins of the fashion house. The severity, almost monkish, is broken only by a few ethnic patterns jackets and by some less conventional items such as ponchos that, owing to its diffusion on the Parisian catwalks, will probably be one of the main trends for men’s next winter.
Balmain new collection is not easy at all. Military-inspired jackets (or circus-inspired ones) with gilded buttons come with torero jackets full of golden embroideries. More to this, velvet biker trousers in warm colors, pointed out a recall to luxury. Oliver Rousteing, Balmain creative director, confirmed one time more his strong and personal style.
Thom Browne collection is inspired to gentlemen clubs. However everything is re-designed in a truly original way. Every look was presented three times: the very first time in tatters, the second time a bit worn down, and the third time in its perfect shape. The collection is linked to the past, with an idea of nostalgia for what has passed forever.
Underground style is still present in Givenchy menswear, under Riccardo Tisci’s artistic direction. The collection takes inspiration from the bizarre theme of ‘African heavy metal music’ and presents suits with snakes prints and metal finishes. Fine details such as fur necks are mixed with ‘street’ clothes like bomber jackets. Fringes coats (often seen on the last Paris catwalks) impose as a style trend for 2016 fall/winter season.
COME DE GARCONS
Large shoulders were a recurrent motif in this Paris Men Fashion week. Comme des Garcons have been inspired by period armors. Flowers, king of the musts for the next winter season, seen and re-seen on the catwalks from London to Milan to Paris, are absolute the main characters in Comme des Garsons new collection. From clothes to the scented crowns on the heads of the models.
Maison Margiela confirms and sanctify a trend already gracing catwalks: hyper-long sleeves. The sleeves of coats and knitwear cover now, partially or totally, the hands of the models. Contrary, trousers become shorter, barely reaching the ankle. Margiela also confirms the trend of loose-knit pullovers. All features fully according to the pure Maison Margiela style.
New Cerruti’s art director Jason Basmajian, presented a collection that takes into account and, exalts the sartorial origins of Cerruti brand. A sober collection with somber colors and with very high quality materials. The only deviation from pure classicism is in the shape of the suits, a little newer than canonic shapes. Cerruti’s man is masculine, classy and totally Italian.
The Dutch designer Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin menswear art director, confirms Lanvin direction through a relaxed and loose-fitting style. Colors minimalism is broken by the bright colors of a few items: green and orange shoes, vivid red trousers, and showy belts. A new shape of trousers, inspired by Oxford-bags old style, is presented by Lanvin, as well as by other fashion houses, as the very must-have item of the upcoming season.
Classic but contemporary. This is the summary of Hermes Men Collection, designed by Veronique Nichanian, Hermes’ high priestess of menswear. She didn’t want to point out a break with the past so in this collection she followed the most pure Hermes style, focusing her attention on the formal perfection of the looks. Color is the keyword of Hermes men next winter: the presentation started with colorful looks (pink, turquoise, cream) to leave slowly space to more monochromatic, lights and skinny looks. Main character: leather in trousers, jackets and accessories.
Bright and colorful. These are the two best fitting adjective to refer to Paul Smith Menswear collection. The suites have shapes that recall the ‘50s and colors that recall the space (red, electric blue, orange, green). The British designer never stops to surprise, not denying his origins and tastes. Bicolor coats process with pride next to baggy trousers, true main characters of the week.
Kenzo bet on sales. After the success of the jumpers (with monogram and tiger face embroideries), designers Lim and Leon, artistic directors of the Japanese brand, decided to sacrifice innovation to easy portability of the looks (so fashion journalist Angelo Flaccavento reports on Business of Fashion). Geometric patterns, ‘70s attire and pop looks are the features of the collection: everything refers to a young public that’s the real counterpart of this Kenzo new collection. Even if the collection won’t make fashion history, golden medal to portability.
by Federico Sigali
pictures by Vogue.com