Beef tongue with green sauce, agnolotti dumplings, brasato roast and gianduiotti. Here’s what, in the common imaginary, you should eat in Turin. Of course, as well as Palazzo Carignano and the Egyptian Museum, these are undisputed city symbols. And yet, Turin’s gastronomic panorama doesn’t look only to the past, but also to the contemporaneity and to the future.
In fact, gourmet food-lovers who are looking for experimentation with a new gastronomic approach have a lot of options available in the Piedmontese capital to choose from.
Precisely in this gastronomic context, the clouds of taste of a new restaurant have gathered. It’s Condividere by Lavazza (Italian for “to share”), an idea of molecular cuisine guru Ferran Adrià, literally destined to shock the palates of taste adventurers.
Inaugurated on June 8th, 2018, Condividere was born as a collaboration between the Catalan chef – father of El Bulli, a name already known to the international gastronomic jet set – and Lavazza, the historic Turin coffee company that does not need any further introduction.
New headquarter, new restaurant
Located at the new headquarters of the group, Condividere unfolds its prelibacies inside the Nuvola (cloud) complex, work of the architect Cino Zucchi and located in Borgo Aurora, a district straddling the Dora Riparia river, at a stone’s throw from the city center.
The attention to detail, the refinement in every aspect, not just gastronomic, are the solid pillars on which Condividere is based. You can already notice it while coming in, being greeted by a particularly prepared, courteous and attentive dining room staff, who continues to follow the guests from the entrance until after dessert.
The importance of the space
Sitting around the table, even before reading the menu, you are immediately struck by the specifically created atmosphere. All thanks to the design curated by the three-time Oscar winner for the Art Direction Dante Ferretti (The Aviator, Sweeney Todd, Hugo Cabret). An extravagant combination of Urban Style, Steampunk and Oriental style is the frame around every meal, making the environment unique.
Matching such a particular dining room is the excellent gastronomic journey, whether you choose a guided tasting or want to try the dishes à la carte. In any case, you will have the opportunity to experiment with new pairings, from the Iberian influences – such as in the case of the Airbaguette with joselito pork – to local must-try such as the Mulassano sandwich with king crab, a tribute to the homonymous historical coffee. Then, the famous spherical olive can’t be missing, being one of the most famous signature dishes of Ferran Adrià, as well as the agnolotti al plin, which revisit Turin’s soul kitchen.
Space for dessert
A respectable dinner can only end with a worthy dessert, and, at Condividere, dessert has literally its own space, being served in a separate room together with coffee, obviously by Lavazza. Also in this case the flavours are excellent, to end up magnificently a fantastic gastronomic tour.
Between one course and another, perhaps accompanied by a good wine recommended by the well-prepared sommelier, guests will surely notice the embodiment of one of the restaurant’s main concepts: the philosophy of sharing. In fact, every dinner companion has its own plate, strictly empty, since food is served at the center of the table, giving everyone the opportunity to literally share the food, making the meal’s conviviality a central and fundamental element.
The engine of the kitchen
Like a captain piloting a ship at the mercy of a gastronomic hurricane, here emerges the figure of Chef Federico Zanasi, chosen specifically to run the kitchen and able to do it magnificently.
Born in 1975 in Modena, the Chef has traveled extensively, working as much in Italy as abroad, and finally landing in Turin, where he also had the kindness to answer some questions useful to deepen the gastronomic background from which Condividere is born.
Nine questions to get to know the chef
Q. How did you approach the world of cooking?
A. I have always wanted to do this profession, I enrolled in cooking school when I was 16, and from there I started my journey.
I can say that what has brought me closer to the world of cooking has always been the pleasure of being able to prepare food for other people.
Q. Among the various cities in which you have lived and worked, which has left you the most important gastronomic baggage?
A. Surely the period with Adrià in Barcelona has helped me to broaden my views, has enriched my gastronomic and, above all, cultural baggage. Ferran makes you reflect on everything and always urges you to document yourself.
Q. Almost a job interview question: how would you describe your cuisine with three adjectives?
A. Contemporary, informal, gluttonous.
Q. Many believe that cooking and pastry are two distinct worlds. What is your point of view about this?
A. I believe that pastry and cooking can be integrated but to be able to do it at best, they must operate in total autonomy without mixing each other.
Personally, I like creative cooking and classic pastry.
Q. How is your brigade organized, hierarchical system or first among peers?
A. My kitchen has a main nucleus made up of guys who have distinct duties. But we try to value anyone on the base of their attitudes.
Q. Let’s talk now about the spectacular open kitchen. How much of the chef did you put in designing what ultimately is your temple?
A. I have designed with the builders everything that is in the kitchen and I thank Lavazza for having satisfied me on all of it. Of course the project has passed from Bullilab to be taken in vision, and together we have made the last adjustments.
When the restaurant was still in construction, I personally recreated a 1A1 template with cartons and polystyrenes in order to better visualize the dimensions and the arrangement of the spaces.
Q. How was the collaboration with Ferran Adrià born?
A. First of all, thanks to Bob Noto – the famous gastronome of Turin – the collaboration with Lavazza was born. And then, after having met and spoken, the collaboration with Adrià and his team started.
Q. How did the idea of a “sharing” (condividere) a dish set up at the center of the table come about?
A. The idea arises from the desire to offer informal haute cuisine, a new concept of democratic cuisine that recovers Sunday lunch with the family and especially the desire to be together and spend time having fun at the table.
Q. What is the aspect of Piedmontese cuisine that attracts you the most?
A. Piedmontese cuisine fascinates me because it has had great French influences around the XVII century, and therefore suffered a great detachment in that period from what was the Italian popular cuisine.
In addition, the vastness of products, elaborate or not, makes this region one of the richest in gastronomy in Italy.
Great environment, great service and excellent cuisine. What more could you ask for a dinner with a strong gastronomic value? After trying a tasting menu, we can’t do anything but recommend it, as well as, of course, book again.
Condividere by Lavazza
Via Bologna 20A, Turin